Discover one of Gaudí’s most important and controversial works
There is no doubt that Gaudí was a genius. However, all geniuses go through phases, and the later they reach in their professional life, the more they let go. This is what we see with La Pedrera, the culmination of his work in residential buildings. Today, it is a UNESCO World Heritage site.
La Pedrera is one of the «grand» buildings along Passeig de Gracia. This area used to be the most expensive in the city, so every square meter was sought after. As you walk along this street, you’ll notice that few buildings are larger than La Pedrera.
What is most impressive, though, is knowing that La Pedrera was built from scratch by Gaudí. Unlike Casa Batlló, which is a profound remodeling of a pre-existing house, Gaudí started with an empty plot here. This gave him the freedom to create a building far ahead of its time, with curious innovations such as a self-supporting façade and the first garage to accommodate 8-10 vehicles (horse-drawn or motorized).
- A brief history of Casa Milà or La Pedrera
- How to get there
- Prices and opening hours
- Visiting La Pedrera: Our Experience
- Nearby activities recommendations
- Other similar articles that might interest you
A brief history of Casa Milà or La Pedrera
This building is known by two names, La Pedrera (more colloquial) or Casa Milà (the official name at the time). The latter name comes from the Milà-Segimón family, two wealthy newlyweds who purchased the property in 1905 and commissioned Gaudí to design a new block of buildings.
Before this majestic work, there was a tower with a garden occupying the 1,835 square meters. Barcelona was rapidly growing and becoming more densely populated, so the old tower was demolished to make way for this new project.
People initially didn’t accept its unconventional design
Construction took place between 1906 and 1912 and generated much interest and controversy. On one hand, Antoni Gaudí defended new architectural techniques, such as building on columns, which allowed for open and spacious interiors (unlike the old load-bearing walls that created small and poorly lit rooms). On the other hand, there was public opinion.
And why was there controversy? Because Gaudí was ahead of his time (so ahead, in fact, that he wasn’t fully appreciated even in the 1960s). The organic rounded shapes, the twisted balconies, the whimsical wrought iron, and more, all sparked debate. People found the house to be eccentric and gave it nicknames like «zeppelin garage» or «cake.»
The City Council, sometimes in favor, sometimes against
Not only did public opinion concern the Milà-Segimón family, but also the City Council, and Gaudí himself, who had to deal with construction inspections. The problem with a genius like Gaudí was that his work was constantly evolving. It wasn’t a fixed project; he adapted it during different phases. This constant change didn’t sit well with the city authorities.
Additionally, Gaudí went over budget and didn’t comply with certain regulations, such as a pillar of the house invading public space or an oversized attic.
Ultimately, the conflict led to a decree from the city’s works committee, classifying the building not as a residential structure but as a monument. This allowed for more leniency with certain regulations.
How to get there
Being in the heart of the city, the easiest way to get to La Pedrera is on foot or by public transport, as private vehicles are discouraged due to limited parking options.
The nearest metro stops are Diagonal (L5-L3) and Passeig de Gràcia (L2-L3), in addition to various bus lines and tourist buses.
Prices and opening hours
Prices
Similar to Casa Batlló, La Pedrera offers different tour options, with some including additional features that make them more expensive.
The following tours are available, with a €3 surcharge for tickets purchased at the ticket office:
- Essential Visit: a. General price: €25 b. Children under 6 years: free c. Children aged 7-12 and residents of Catalonia (current promotion): €12.50 d. Seniors over 65 years: €29
- Pedrera Complete (Essential Visit + 3D glasses): a. General price: €35 b. Children aged 10-12 and residents of Catalonia (current promotion): €22.50 c. Seniors over 65 years: €29
- Pedrera Night Experience: General price: €38, with discounts for children, seniors, and Catalonia residents.
- Pedrera Open Date: General price: €38, Children aged 7-12: €16
The basic price already includes an audio guide.
We recommend visiting the official website to purchase tickets or through civitatis and checking for updated rates, as the prices mentioned above are based on the article’s publication date.
What does Open Date mean?
When you buy the ticket, you are required to select a date and time for your visit. While this system helps manage crowds, it also means you have to visit at the chosen time slot. If you choose Open Date, you can visit anytime within the next 6 months. However, we don’t believe it’s worth the extra cost.
Please note that visiting the ticket office directly incurs a €3 surcharge on the prices mentioned above.
Visiting La Pedrera: Our Experience
Overview of the visit
In our case, we visited on a Thursday afternoon in July. Fortunately, it wasn’t too crowded at that time, but this can vary.
The visit starts at the ticket office, located on Carrer Provença, not the main entrance. After purchasing your tickets and passing through a security arch, you can explore the 4,500 square meters distributed over five floors (though you’ll only see four floors).
One controversial aspect is that the visit includes the ground floor, the fifth floor (the tenant’s apartment), the attic, and the rooftop. You won’t see the main floor where the Milà family lived, and that’s a flaw in our opinion. Let us explain.
Is the most important floor of La Pedrera visited? NO!
During the time this building and others were constructed, the landlords kept the main floor (above the mezzanine) for themselves and rented out the rest of the building to other tenants. Obviously, these tenants were not exactly poor, but typically, the best floor was the main floor.
Today, La Pedrera still has tenants, and the main floor is used for other purposes. As a result, the visit does not include the main floor! To compensate, the visit includes the uppermost floor, the fifth floor. It has been adapted well, but we cannot ignore the fact that it is a significant omission in the tour.
As a curiosity, you should know that people still live in this building! There are three rental apartments… and we assume they are not affordable for modest incomes.
The ground floor
After passing through the security arch, you’ll visit the «Courtyard of the Butterflies» and the «Courtyard of the Flowers», the two main interior courtyards that allowed natural light into all the rooms. At the time, this was a significant advancement since Gaudí (and the Modernist movement in general) highly valued aspects of health, such as natural light and ventilation.
The oval and natural forms of both courtyards are truly spectacular. Additionally, the façade and decorative elements are adorned with natural tones. The doors, made of wrought iron, are another striking feature that captures attention.
The tenant’s apartment
After seeing the courtyards, you can ascend the five floors by foot or take the elevator. If possible, we recommend walking to see the staircase.
This apartment, located on the fourth floor (but it is technically the fifth floor due to the main floor counting convention), recreates how a bourgeois family lived at the beginning of the 20th century.
The visit starts with the servants’ quarters and the children’s bedroom, as, indeed, children were close to the servants. We can imagine that if a child had a restless night, it wasn’t the parents who got up to tend to them.
Next, we see the kitchen, with period furniture and many utensils. The natural light that enters all the rooms is incredible, though we must remember that we are on the top floor.
From there, we move on to see the bathrooms, the study, the dining room, and the master bedroom. Everything is meticulously maintained. Pay attention to original details such as doors, door handles, windows, and lights. It truly was a space where art flourished.
We then cross through the interior gallery and, yes, there’s a shop in the middle of the tour (don’t worry; there’s another one at the end). Although we’re not big fans of souvenir shops, both shops offer well-crafted products. Now, let’s move on to the next stop.
The attic
The previous locations were beautiful, but the attic is where the building truly shines with its originality. It’s simply incredible with its 273 catenary arches resembling the skeleton of a whale. As a result, you’ll feel a bit like «Pinocchio» inside the belly of a whale.
It’s astonishing to think that this striking area was originally intended for the servants’ duties only. It’s a spacious area where the servants could work comfortably. Access to the floors was separate from the main staircase, as the landlords couldn’t be bothered by the servants.
Currently, you’ll find some exhibitions of different elements here, known as Espai Gaudí. Some are temporary, like the Jaume Plensa faces we saw, while others are permanent exhibitions that enhance the visit by providing context. You’ll see exhibits like modernist design furniture or models that help understand Gaudí’s works.
The rooftop
The other magical place on the tour. Just as the attic resembles a whale’s skeleton, the rooftop is full of uneven surfaces due to the various interior courtyards. Instead of a completely flat roof, it’s the result of the overall design.
However, Gaudí couldn’t simply create something functional to cover the building; he had to add a touch of magic. That’s how he designed the famous chimneys with soldier-like heads on top. The rooftop entrances are made of white «trencadís» marble with modernist shapes. Gaudí couldn’t create something purely functional; he always turned his work into art.
When you visit, be mindful of your feet, as there are many staircases. You couldn’t climb them drunk, basically. But there’s no danger; everything is equipped with high railings (which can be a bit annoying for photos) to prevent accidents for people with vertigo or those feeling a bit daring.
Nearby activities recommendations
In addition to the La Pedrera visit, Civitatis offers several proposals to complement your experience or provide an extra touch to your trip:
| Entrance to La Pedrera (25 Euros) |  |
| Night Visit and Show at La Pedrera (€38) | |
| Free Gaudí and Modernist Barcelona Tour (Free) | |
| Barcelona Tourist Bus (€33) | |
| Gaudí’s Marvels Tour (€89) | |
We recommend visiting the Civitatis website for updated prices of these attractions, as the prices mentioned in this article are accurate as of the date of publication.
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This website offers a collection of images of La Pedrera throughout different periods
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